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Skin Creams containing Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)
Creams containing AHAs, also known as fruit acids, bridge the gap between cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. More commonly used AHAs include citric acid, which is derived irom citrus fruits tartaric acid from grapes, malic acid from apples and mandlic acid from cucumbers. GIycolie acid, which is derived from sugar cane, is one of the most widely used in creams because its small molecules penetrate further than other AHAs.
Creams containing AHAs exfoliate the skin by loosening the glue-like bonds that hold together the dead cells on the surface of the outer horny layer. Consistent exfoliation boosts slow cell turnover and helps other skin-care ingredients to penetrate below the surface. AHAs are also said to reduce the appearance of lines and pigment patches and boost the skin's hyaluronic acid (moisture) quota. There is evidence that they also improve sun-tolerance upto an equivalent of SPF 25 Trials at the University of California, Los Angeles, indicate they may even encourage collagen production.
High concentrations of AHAs may cause sensitive skin reactions. Newest cream formulas hover around a "safe" 4 per cent of the total mass. However, at a recent conference, dermatologists stated that the acidity level of the AHA used was the crucial factor. Glycolic acid, for example, with a pH (acid value) of 3.5 close to the skin's own is better tolerated. Even at higher percentages, AHAs work well for mature, 35-plus skin. They also help to unclog pores and regulate oily, acne-prone skin. Results are rewardingly rapid.
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